Відео

No it is not a drain hole and actually I do not know what it is for. From above, there is no hole. Nevertheless even if it was, just draining it from time to time will leave mold everywhere.

@@moremolecules thanks - I have a Citroen C4 coupe and I'm having the same issue. Is there an easy way to eliminate certain potential places for the leak to be coming from? For example, my boot floor carpet is dry, my headlining is dry. So does that mean that its something lower down that's the source of the leak - like these air flow vents that you've fixed?

Wow, I mean this comment is like you have not even seen the video and stated that I did it the wrong way around "mate". Fully charged @ 3:08 miniute of the video. How is that the wrong way around?

@@moremolecules the reason i know " MATE" is because i contacted them and they advised me that was the correct way .. and yes i did watch your vidoe .. and thats why i commented .. charge battery first .. then do the repair mate .. cheers .. your welcome !!

@@mjwello Did I ask how you know? It is in the Noco Genius 5 manual. I pointed to at 3:08 minute of the video where I charge it to full before doing the repair function. I only asked how that was wrong as per your original comment and how what I was doing was the other way around.

@@moremolecules fair enough i may have missed that .. but you didnt need to recharge again afterwards.. i had issues charging my boat battery hence why i contacted them .. that was the procedure they told me .. did not say anything about doing another full charge afterwards , and i had no further issues .

thats a neat foxwell meter by the way !!

The air goes back to the fuel tank

​@@moremoleculesThank you. But where does is exit the filter housing? 😊

Hahah, thank you for that comment, made my day. All the best

Difficult to test the PCV valve. As long as the spring and the rubber membranes are intact it should work. It is a very simple PCV system in the 1.6HDi, the spring pushes the membrane opened, when the turbo kicks in and sucks air from the crankcase, the rubber membrane closes. That's that, it is not very sophisticated.

@@moremolecules Thank you

I suspect that the valve stem seals are getting harder and slipping a bit of oil in the chamber, when the weather is relatively warm, this completely disappears and probably with warmer weather they get a little bit softer. I should probably try some of these oil rubber softeners in the oil, as taking it all off is quite a hassle.

Up to you, but probably once a month.

@@moremolecules i think it will fry my battery, not gonna use repair mode with high voltage 15 or 16 volts.

@@playstation2bigs It does not go to 15-16V, it pulses rather than increase voltage. It has not fried my battery and I tried it multiple times. Has not recovered my battery though, haha

Many thanks indeed for the good words, much appreciated! Funnily enough, the first time I ever did my EGR valve, I also rounded one of the bolts, hence the part number in the description of the video. Thanks again.

I bet they will be very grimy. Yeah, I will have to think about doing one of these, although work and so on other commitments, might be a bit. Nevertheless, many thanks indeed for the comment and suggestion. Noted!

Yes, I now use just water and dishwashing liquid. There is nothing that will rust in the bottom part of the EGR valve as most components are aluminium or steel alloy. Do not of course put any electronic components in water, like the top part. You could use diesel for example, but dishwashing liquid is as good in removing carbon. Now it depends on how much carbon there is, as it may be a little bit more difficult to remove. A toothbrush will help.

Thank you for that, appreciate it!

Not too sure about that, you may need to check it out with an auto gearbox specialist.

Could be, I thought that with a zip tie would work best. I think a guitar string will be too thin to wedge in between the plastic tabs.

@@moremolecules There are many gauge strings, i am sure the right one exists.

Thanks for the tip with the silicone gasket. I will probably next time smear a little bit of greese on it to hold it in place.

I do not think it matters that much, but when I was doing mine could not quite work out which one is where, so spend quite a bit of time trying to work it out, hence the video, in case it helps someone else.

Do you mean, wrap it around with the closed/activated cable tie and do it that way, instead of like me? Yeah, probably it would work better.

@@moremolecules Yes, I mean that. My bad english 😂😂😂

@@tehnoelektronikloznica7119 No worries at all, mine is not that good either 🙂. I guess that technique would be better than mine.

@@moremolecules thanks a lot!

Yeah, probably, as long as it has a turbo and the construction of the injector tube is the same.

Unfortunately, there is no link for the bracket, I do not think anyone would be bothered to produce one of these. I did it myself from a piece of metal, shaped it with pliers. THe specs are in the description of the video. One could probably do a thinner metal than mine.

@@moremolecules Thank you, please can I ask since this is a heat-related staff, would a normal metal bracket work do you think?

@@LabonyKitchen It should work, I used a normal steel piece from B&Q and just bent it with pliers to shape. Any 2-4mm steel will work. It wil rust of course due to the repeated heat, but it works without a problem.

If it is 1.6 TDCi fiesta, it is the same engine, pretty much the same engine as in the 1.6 D Mini Cooper, Mazda 3, Volvo, Suzuki, Citroens.

Maybe, not too sure, probably it will actually if it is the TU5JP4 engine.

I cannot quite say if the "fake" behaves exactly in the same way, probably. I removed it as I thought it adds a little bit of a restriction and the purpose as a valve for putting back the oil in the sump is not done in my case.

You can have it permanently plugged in to the car battery, but you should not start the car with it connected. If it is conected it might burn some of the electronics. You can have a switch or something if you want to break the connection when starting the car.

Is this a camshaft sensor? I do not think there are any configuration parameters for these. Both of these are plug'n'play, nothing to configure.

@@moremoleculesThank you for the reply this is a position sensor to activate the the turbo wastegate or turbo actuator I've been told after fitting these parts you need to recalibrate the parameters in the ECU similar to what you explained with the EGR valve

@@scotmorley8526 I suspect that is the 110bhp 1.6HDi as my 92bhp does not have the position sensor. It should be somewhere there in the menu of the PP2000. Unfortunately mine does not have, so difficult to show with PP2000/Lexia.

No, I do not have one, but there are a few on youtube.

Not for the crankshaft sensor